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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:50 am 
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Being as I am just developing my hand tool skills, I was a bit apprehensive (read breaking out in a cold sweat) as it came to cutting the slots for the sides in my neck, as I have already put several hours of work cutting head shape, tuner holes, slots etc. and waiting for glue to dry.
Having taken a fancy to the double wedge idea for the slots, two saw cuts each side, parallel and straight and in the correct place made me nervous. A router was out for me - having just routed headstock slots I knew there was altogether too much to go wrong, extremely quickly.
Remembering the Veritas Dovetail Saw Guide, I did the home made jig thing with rare earth magnets and thin sticky UHMWP.
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And a bit apprehensively did this
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And was able to breath again.
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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:53 am 
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Well done! I'm about to cut my first mandolin neck joint so I understand the apprehension.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:31 am 
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I used to do the single wedge. Now I've gone back to the 2 mm (or whatever) slot. I think if you had put a metal shim in your first saw slot, then cut right next to it, you would be done.
It's the metal shim that makes it easy. Previously (and many times) I had tried wood veneer and it never turned out good. I think that's why so many turned to the wedge system. Try it on scrap, a bit of Pine.
Of course they all work, no wedge, single or double.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 8:47 am 
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Michael.N. wrote:
I used to do the single wedge. Now I've gone back to the 2 mm (or whatever) slot. I think if you had put a metal shim in your first saw slot, then cut right next to it, you would be done.
It's the metal shim that makes it easy. Previously (and many times) I had tried wood veneer and it never turned out good. I think that's why so many turned to the wedge system. Try it on scrap, a bit of Pine.
Of course they all work, no wedge, single or double.

Yes, but even getting the first saw slot was still a problem, mirror image to other side, square and 4 degree (in my case) back angle, for my hand skills anyway.
And I would be frightened for my saw (kerfed teeth) with a loose shim, so it would have to be attached to the blade (I suppose steel and rare earth magnets would be a solution)
I'm a babe in arms comparing my hand tool skills to yours!
As I develop, things will improve (I hope!)

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:37 am 
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Colin;
I always cut my side slots before-tuner slots/head/tuner holes.
That way if I made firewood ;I know right away!

Mike

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:55 am 
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Koa
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Colin North wrote:
Michael.N. wrote:
I used to do the single wedge. Now I've gone back to the 2 mm (or whatever) slot. I think if you had put a metal shim in your first saw slot, then cut right next to it, you would be done.
It's the metal shim that makes it easy. Previously (and many times) I had tried wood veneer and it never turned out good. I think that's why so many turned to the wedge system. Try it on scrap, a bit of Pine.
Of course they all work, no wedge, single or double.

Yes, but even getting the first saw slot was still a problem, mirror image to other side, square and 4 degree (in my case) back angle, for my hand skills anyway.
And I would be frightened for my saw (kerfed teeth) with a loose shim, so it would have to be attached to the blade (I suppose steel and rare earth magnets would be a solution)
I'm a babe in arms comparing my hand tool skills to yours!
As I develop, things will improve (I hope!)


It's not that difficult. First thing to do is to knife mark it. Make sure that's right. Then I use a very fine Tamiya model makers saw (great little saw), going all around and deepening those knife cuts. Do the same with the big saw, a little deeper. Then cut the slot proper. You can use a guide. That's it. if you get that right your home dry. If you get it wrong, convert it to a wedge (I've done that before!).


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 11:15 am 
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First name: colin
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Good idea Mike, would have cut down on he nerves!
Micheal. thanks for the encouragement. I followed (delcamp) a couple of threads you posted in including including one on this operation (with John Ray's suggestions. Very clear cut - oops_sign)
I normally use a marking knife for all critical cuts, chiseling a start for the initial sawcut.
Also bought a Tamiya model makers saw on your post recommending it, as I find the push style modelling saw a bit awkward sometimes.
Super piece of kit, as are all Japanese saws seem to be. The one in the picture I bought several years ago during a visit to Japan, Hard point. Only replaced the blade for these cut, not bad for a DIY shop buy.

_________________
The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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